Abutilon

Fig. 1      Abutilon x hybridum - solitary and pendent flower. (February 15, 2012)

 

New Plant for My Garden

Last fall, I bought a foot-tall blooming Abutilon plant from the Farmer's Market in Placerville. Winter is almost over and the same plant remains blooming and seemingly unrelenting (Fig.1). The plant has flower buds that come out wrapped in a blackish red calyx (Fig. 2) which eventually opens into a bell-shaped pendent flower with overlapping dark scarlet petals and even a red peduncle (Fig. 1).

Twelve years ago when there were no tall trees in my backyard, I planted my first Abutilon and I was very pleased with its vigor. Sadly, on its third year, it began to shade some important plants round it. It had to go in favor of the other ones. But because of its desirable characteristics as a plant, I bought this new plant (Fig.1) as a replacement for the old one.

Fig. 2     Unopened Abutilon flower

About Abutilon

Common names include: Flowering maple; Parlor maple; Indian mallow; Chinese lantern, etc.  They are closely related to Hibiscus (Malvaceae family).  They are occasionally referred to as "maple" because of the resemblance to the actual maple trees in the shape of the leaves being palmate.  

Abutilons are evergreen small trees that can grow up to about eight feet tall. They are fast growing  plants. Given the right conditions they can reach their potential height on the second year.   They bloom almost year round in our area. Of the numerous varieties, the most popular ones bear solitary and pendent flowers like the one I have now (Fig. 1 and Fig.2). There are some that bear flowers in panicles - dangling like their solitary counterparts.   Green Acres, the mega nursery in the area, currently offers a wide selection of Abutilon.

 

Tips in Growing Abutilon

1.  Microclimate.   Abutilons like places with a lot of light up a point when temperature interferes with its growth.  In hot and dry areas like here near the Sacramento area, the plant prefers to grow in a sheltered south-facing location.  Afternoon shade helps reduce excessive transpiration and scorching of the flowers.  On the other hand, in places with cooler temperatures and more rains, full sun would work well.  Always remember to garden with microclimate instead of the generic recommendations for your plants.

2. Fertilization.  Being fast-growing and ever-blooming,  the plant benefits from adequate fertilization.  Phosphorous fertilization during the first and second year of growth ensures a strong root system.  If it is grown in a container then regular application of a slow release balanced fertilizer is more important than those planted in the ground.  The plant is responsive to fetilization as much as it is expressive of nutritional deficiency.  Chlorosis is the first sign of nitrogen deficiency but make sure that it is not caused by insufficient or excessive watering.  In general, I withhold fertilization starting in late fall to allow my evergreen plants to rest a little. 

3.  Pruning.  The plant may be pruned to regulate its shape and size. In the spring it is best to prune the tree, removing all branches that have died during the previous season, before the temperatures warm up.  Pruning may be done anytime to remove branches that stick out of place and also to encourage branching for a fuller shrub. 

   

Abutilon: evergreen and ever-blooming perennial for the protected sunny location in the garden.

Sweet Potato

 Fig.1     New sweet potato (Ipomea batatas) plant.

Nostalgic Introduction

If anyone would make a movie about my childhood days in the Philippines, sweet potato (Ipomea batatas) would show up over and over again in the background.  Sweet potato is a must-have crop. The roots are eaten as source of carbohydrates prepared as dessert or snack food.  Although it is nutritious and readily available, it does not have the reputation as a staple food unlike rice (Oryza sativa), corn (Zea mays) and cassava (Manihot esculenta).  As a root crop it has a low acceptance possibly due to its flatulent characteristic.   The young leaves, however, have a better reputation as green vegetable.  They are cooked in stews or prepared as wilted salad.  When wilted (not over-cooked) they taste like spinach.  Believe it or not, some varieties taste better than others.   The vines and the older leaves are used as feeds. 

Growing sweet potato is very easy.  In fact the American expression "Piece of cake", can be translated in Ilocano (my native dialect) as "Kasla agmula ti kamote" meaning "It's like planting sweet potato". There was a time when the roadsides in my barrio (village) were all planted with sweet potatoes.  They were beautiful.  Here on the temperate side of the globe, there is also an increasing popularity of the Ipomea (sweet potato) as an ornamental plant mainly for its foliage.

Fig. 2   Sprouts arising from stored sweet potato roots. (January 31, 2012)

Fig. 3 A clean cut on one side of sweet potato.

Regenerating Storage Organs
Now in my house, away from the barrio where I grew up, sweet potato only shows up on Thanksgiving and Christmas.  A month ago while cleaning my pantry, I was in luck!  I found two large sweet potatoes that were sprouting.  The immediate thought that came to mind was planting material.  They have been sitting there for at least two months.  Sweet potatoes, commonly known in the US as yams, are storage organs where food and moisture abound. Because of that, the cells within the root are kept alive and capable of regeneration - starting a new plant.  This is true for most of the food we eat that come in various forms of storage organs such as bulbs (onions - Allium cepa and garlic - Allium sativum); rhizome (ginger- Zingiber officinale); tubers (potatoes - Solanum tuberosum); and corm (taro - Colocasia esculenta).  All of these examples will regenerate when the right conditions are met.  In the home, the pantry seems favorable enough to initiate new growths on such vegetables.

Fig. 4 Wet paper towel encourages root growth on a sprouting sweet potato.

Conditioning the New Sprouts.

Plants grown in the dark, such as those shown on Fig. 2 are etiolated and lanky. This, however, can be improved by exposing them to diffused light.  What I did was cut one side of the root (Fig. 3) to provide a flat surface that would rest on the wet paper towel on a dish (Fig. 4).  It has been my experience that growth of adventitious roots is enhanced by moisture - so the paper towel was kept wet at all times. 

Fig. 5     One week of exposure to light resulted in healthy-looking sprouts.

Garden-worthy Plantlets.

After eight days of exposure to light, the sprouts showed a significant change in coloration (Fig. 5 and Fig. 2).   The young sprouts begin to produce chlorophyll giving the leaves a green color.  They have grown to be more stocky and strong.  The same principle applies to potato (Solanum tuberosum) seed tubers. When their sprouts are pale, give them some time to get exposed to diffused light before planting them.

The roots  (Fig.5) look like they are ready to meet the soil but I will have to keep them inside for a little bit longer until the temperatures get warm. 

 

The Role of Sweet Potato in Another Country

I invite you to watch this video to see how sweet potato is being used to end hunger in Mozambique.

Gardening and Microclimate

Fig. 1  Mature plant communities at Filoli Gardens.

Gardening is all about harnessing microclimate.  After so many years of studying, observing, and putting all techniques learned into practical use in growing plants, I've arrived to the conclusion that the complexity of gardening boils down to understanding microclimate.  The magnitude of the effects of genetics and management practices on the overall success of gardening can be enhanced or diminished by the immediate growing environment - microclimate.  Microclimate is the unique condition within the immediate surroundings of a given small area. It takes into account the interaction of the following factors: light (intensity, duration), temperature, wind/turbulence, moisture, soil condition, and topography.  It is affected by the presence or absence of structures such buildings, pavements, trees, slopes, orientation, and plants around the area.  

Gardening on the basis of the USDA Hardiness Zone alone is not enough.  Every gardener knows that different plants require different conditions for optimum growth.  The plants we buy from nurseries come with labels that indicate the most basic and generic condition for growth.  The terms full sun, partial sun, partial shade, shade, all suggest a preferred microclimate for the specific plant.  Some plants need direct full sunlight while others prefer attenuated sunlight light allowing them to perform best under tall trees (Fig. 1).  However, one must consider that a full sun in Seattle may not the same as that in Sacramento.  

Fig. 2  Eastern side: Growing trees and hedges affect the amount of sunlight and wind turbulence in the garden.

Microclimates in My Backyard.  Even small backyard gardens like mine have several distinct microclimates.  The eastern side (Fig. 2) of the house is a lot different from the southern side (Fig. 3).  The former gets an early but short exposure to sunlight while the latter gets a later, prolonged and higher-intensity sunlight.  At the western side of the house light reflects from the white wall and wind circulation is limited because of the close distance between the house and the fence.  The north side is still another microclimate where the sun comes only late in the afternoon.  The best performing plant on this side is the Cecile Brunner rose which has extended itself to reach the top of the roof where it can get enough sunlight  (Fig. 4).  My garden is now a lot shadier than it was twelve years ago.  The trees have matured and the place where I used to plant strawberries now gets only two hours of  dappled sunlight during a summer day.  (One good effect of the lack of sunlight is that there are no more weeds growing there.)

 

Fig. 3 Southern side of the garden.

Fig.  4  Northern side: Cecile Brunner rose

  

Fig.  5.  Location for a bench -  shade or sun?

The Bench Comparison.  In gardening, finding the right microclimate is like finding the right place for a bench (Fig. 5).  Depending on the location, one can either enjoy sitting on it or suffer.  But then again, it also depends on the goal of the person sitting on the bench.  My friend, Sue, would like her bench to be in the sun while I like it to be in the shade.  With restraint, both bench positions are good depending on the desired effect.  

 Crassula argentea 'Compacta' under two microclimates. 

Fig. 6   Grown on the eastern side of the yard.

Two years ago  I bought a compact mini jade plant (Crassula argentea 'Compacta') in a 3 inch pot.  Since then the plant has grown and been divided into two separate plants in 6" pots.  One of them (Fig. 6) was located on the east-facing side of the yard.  The other one (Fig. 7) was positioned in the south-facing side of the yard where it was exposed to prolonged direct sunlight. It was definitely hotter on this side of the yard; the soil also dried up faster than its east-facing counterpart.

Fig. 7  Grown on the the southern side of the yard.

There was a sharp contrast between the two plants when it comes to color.  More sunlight (Fig 7) resulted in yellowish leaves with very pronounced red leaf margins.  Shorter direct sunlight resulted in darker green leaves (Fig. 6).  As long as the needs of the plants are all met at the right amount, the two plants function normally but to the naked eye, microclimate within their growing area is reflected through their coloration.   These are occurrences that we so often take for granted.  But if you think about it, a gardener can actually manipulate the color of these jade plants to suit their preferences by strategically planting them in the right microclimate. 

Spring is right around the corner and planting season is here.  Make sure to re-acquaint yourself with the ever-changing microclimates around your garden.  It is the most important consideration in your choice of plants and even timing of activities in your garden.

"Sufficient knowledge of your microclimates will help you understand your gardening successes and failures."

Mini Garden Beds

Fig. 1   Lettuce plants growing in miniature garden beds.

Raised-bed gardening can improve plant growth, conserve resources, and prevent soil compaction and erosion.  Let me explain.  The use of an enclosure, no matter how simple (Fig. 1 and Fig. 2), allows soil and other soil-amendments to remain in place - defying erosion.  Garden beds define the places that are exclusively for plants and are off limits to traffic. Water and fertilizer can be applied right where they are needed. 

We experimented on using Redwood fence boards to make simple garden beds.  The soil underneath is relatively good hence there was no need for a deep bed.  Some of the beds were made small to facilitate succession planting.  A new crop can be planted in a bed without having to wait for the other beds to be ready.  Succession planting prolongs the length of harvest season for any given crop.

So far, I am very pleased with the outcome of this experiment. 

Fig. 2   Good soil is contained in the garden box.

For the small spaces in your garden, try these easy mini-garden-beds. 

Cloning Echeveria 'Black Prince'

Echeveria 'Black Prince'

 

Triangular leaves.

 Echeveria 'Black Prince' is a slow and low growing succulent with reddish-brown leaves in triangular shapes.  It has a color that provides a great contrast with the more common greyish-green succulent species.  Althought the plant is apparently dark, the center is green and darkening towards the outer end.  The plant remains compact with very tight internodes.  The plant grows into a rosette - a plant that resembles the structure of a rose flower.  It remains short but it rises up to two-feet high when bolting occurs.   (Bolting is a flowering characteristic of some plants wherein a hormone-induced spike elongates way above the main plant.)

Echeveria 'Black Prince' is a hybrid that resulted from crossing Echeveria shaviana (as the female parent) and Echeveria affinis (the male parent).   E. shaviana has a dainty spreading appearance; the pinkish-grey leaves exhibiting a ruffled look.  E. affinis, on the other hand, has very disciplined look with vertically inclined pointed black leaves.  The 'Black Prince' cultivar got its appealing characteristics from these parents contrasting parents.

Five Steps for Propagating Echeveria 'Black Prince'

This slow-growing succulent can be rapidly cloned by using the right vegetative part of the plant.  I experimented using different leaves from the plant and I was amazed to see the sharp difference in the number of days to root.
1.  Collect plant material.  Collect leaves from the flower spike.  It has been my personal observation that the leaves that are located right below the flowers are easier to root than the leaves coming from the base of the plant.  It could be that the hormone that induced the plant to go into bolting (probably auxin) is abundant in this part of the plant.  Auxin which is a growth regulator that is known to increase shoot and root growth.

Leaves on the spikes are best for propagating.

2.  Heal the cut.  Allow the cut ends of the leaves to heal or develop a callus. This is done by wrapping them with a paper towel and keeping them protected and dry for three to seven days.

Moistened paper towel provides regulated moisture.

3.  Pre-root.  Moisten a paper towel then fold it to fit into the bottom of a small plastic cup.  Then arrange the leaves so that the healed ends are touching the damp paper towel.   Cover with a plastic wrap and leave it alone for a week. (The leaves can be directly planted in small pots but I prefer to get the roots started first.)  This is a good way to maintain the right amount of moisture for optimum rooting. 

Roots growing from the leaves of Echeveria 'Black Prince'.

4.   Grow.  Grow the pre-rooted leaves in a medium that provides needed nutrition for new plants   Succulents generally prefer good-draining (high percentage of sand) potting mix.   Make shallow holes in the adequately watered mix to minimize damage to the roots.  Cover the rooted-end of the leaves with about a centimeter of the mix.

 

Shallow holes.

Cover the rooted ends with a thin layer of potting mix (about 1 cm).

5.   Cover with plastic.  At this point your main adversary to success is too dry or too wet soil.  Dry condition will be delay the growth of new plants while wet condition will induce rotting.  To ensure high percentage of survival, securely cover the trays with plastic wrap.  This will maintain the desired soil moisture during the critical time of rooting until the plant is established.   Keep it in a place with adequate light (I keep them outdoors).  New plants will become visible after two to three weeks.

Trays covered with plastic-wrap.

Clone your Echeveria today; and give them away as gifts.

Suitable or Questionable?

Wooly Rose (Echeveria cristata 'Doris Taylor') cannot withstand freezing temperatures.

Questionable Plant.  Some of my frost-sensitive plants get special treatment these days by being placed close to the house to take advantage of the heat from the walls.  They are also moved around where they can be in the sun even for just a few minutes of the day.  Frost damage can be avoided or reduced when the plants get a chance to recover by getting exposed to warmer temperatures early the next day.   This wooly rose (Echeveria cristata) cannot withstand freezing temperatures - a lesson I learned last year.  Fortunately, it survived and that is why it is still here - but it is now under observation.  Plants that die in my garden because they require too much care do not deserve to be here.  

Suitable plants are beautiful.

Suitable Plant.  If a plant proves to be suitable under our climatic conditions and if they prove to be beautiful and requiring minimal maintenance, then it deserves consideration.  It is guaranteed that it will be provided with the chance to proliferate.  

Suitable plants are adaptable.

Sometimes we fall in love with a particular plant that we ignore the amount of effort that we put into its maintenance.  As gardeners we all need to train our heart and mind to agree. 

Late Crop with a Reason

 

September 26, 2010:  Tomatoes are still all green.

Problem:  My friend Janice loves gardening.  She and her husband takes pride in their vegetable garden that they plant every year.  However, the current year is different from the previous ones - their crops are late.  The tomatoes are still green.  They started their crops in the spring and the good weather we had presented no problems for the crops.  They watched the plants grow and were pleased with what they saw.  Until one day the plants that were full of promise began to disappear one after another.  Gophers, their subterranean enemies, launched a war against them.  She was almost crying when she described the way they felt about their garden that disappeared in front of their eyes.   They tried several suggested solutions to solve the problem before they finally identified the one that worked. 

Solution:  Ammonia and dryer sheets.  Who would have thought?  They poured the ammonia into the holes and plugged the same hole with the dryer sheets.   Then the gophers were gone.  Whether the enemies died or fled to a different garden is something yet to be determined.  

Effect:  After the gophers were gone, they planted again but now their crops are late.  At the writing of this post, their tomatoes are as green as can be.  They are huge but they are still bulking.  It is late in September and the temperatures are beginning to feel like fall.   They lost a good number of the optimum growing days of spring and summer.   However this is not all bad...with the way things are it is likely that they will have fresh home-grown tomatoes for their Thanksgiving dinner and freshly made Salsa Verde to go with chips.

Tomatoes loaded with healthy fruits in pre-ripening stage.

Tomatillos

Success in gardening cannot be achieved with one perfect formula.  The conditions around the garden vary from season to season and present a new experience to be sought.  No gardener can truly master a garden but one can master the learning process.

One More Reason Why Tomatoes Should be Harvested...

Birds have decided to help themselves to my tomatoes.

Just because we still have a basketful of tomatoes in the kitchen does not mean that I should stop harvesting them.  Some of my garden friends - the birds, are more than willing to help themselves to the fruits as soon as they see the color turns appetizing. 

 

Birds like to eat the fruits on the upper portion of the tomato plant.

I would have preferred that they eat from the cherry tomatoes. Since they don't eat much, the marble-sized tomato would be a perfect portion for one meal.  But no!  The bigger fruits provide them a place to brace up as they savor the delicious fruits of the garden.  Well, I don't blame them; in fact I need to be generous.   After all they are my partners when it comes to attacking our pesky enemies.  These are the same birds that helped me get rid of the tomato caterpillars from my plants when I was busy doing other things.  If you have not watched a Blue Jay kill a huge caterpillar by hitting it against a rock, then you have not seen much!  :)

Easy Planters

 I believe that necessity is the mother of invention.  Propagating succulents is fun and easy but sometimes the appropriate planter can be costly.  Last spring my succulents needed some place to grow so I enlisted my husband to make some mini boxes for me.  He used pieces of wood that were available around the house.   When he had cut the wood into the right pieces, my nine-year-old daughter helped him nail the pieces together. 

After a couple of months later... They don't look shabby at all.  In fact I favor them because they are low cost and they deviate from the mass-produced look.  The grayish color of the faded wood complements the bluish-green succulents.

The plants seem to like the box.

These pots are light and easy to move around.

The box can be made long to hold more plants.

My nine-year-old daughter made this box which seem to be holding together...a little bit.

These planters are so easy - even a nine-year-old can make them.

Beating the Heat

Daylily (Hemerocallis L.)

Yesterday

Maximum Temp:  102 ºF 

Minimum  Temp:    66 ºF

Realtive Humidity:   20%

Today

Maximum Temp: 99 ºF

Minimum Temp:  64 ºF

Relative Humidity: 17%

It is that time of the year again when being in the garden is almost like being in a furnace. 

Plants love the sun.  Plants are plants because of the sun and the heat energy they derive from it.  To most plants summer is heaven.  In addition to the abundance of sunshine, temperature also increases the rate of photosynthesis or production.  That's what plants love to do.  But anything good especially in excess always comes with a price.  Intense sunlight which is accompanied by high temperatures jeopardizes the availability of water to the plant.

Ground water dissipates from the ground through evaporation while absorbed water escapes the plants through transpiration at a high rate.  Ideally, natural weather conditions would provide replacement of lost water through precipitation.  My garden is not so ideally located when it comes to rainfall.  Affected by the Mediterranean climate, California's subtropical environment is characterized by a dry summer.   The example of weather condition above shows how dry it is here by the relative humidity of lower than 20%.  Gardening here requires some techniques to beat the heat during the dry months.

Adjust watering schedule. 

1.  Water less frequently but deeply to encourage the roots to grow deeper. 

2.  Water during the cooler times of the day/night to avoid loss by evaporation.

3.  Drip irrigate to avoid runoff especially where the soil is on a slope.

4.  Check irrigation pipes for leaks and breakage.

Mulch.

Mulching is the simply the process of spreading a protective layer of material on top of the soil.  It is an effective way to conserve soil moisture, reduce soil temperature, and prevent weed growth.  There are several materials available at your local nursery or home improvement center.  When using organic materials (those that are derived from plant and animal by-products) mulching eventually improves the water-holding capacity of the soil.

Use what is available and free.  In my garden I use dried grass clippings for mulching instead of throwing them away.  It has to be dry before they are used to mulch shallow rooted plants but you can directly use fresh clippings to mulch around trees or in opens spaces.   Coffee grounds also make a good mulch material; I use them for mulching potted plants.  Coffee shops such as Starbucks and Peets Coffee offer coffee grounds for free.   Sometimes they already in bags ready for anyone interested. 

Protect potted plants. 

Potted plants are "caged" and they have limited space to hunt for resources particularly water.  During the hot months of summer, it is best to move them to a place where they can get some shade.  This will reduce water loss through excessive transpiration and evaporation. 

And then fertilize...

Frequent watering depletes the soil from the essential nutrients especially those in pots.  Applying fertilizer on a regular basis benefits the plants.  It is not enough to provide water for the plants.  The nutrients they need have to be available also for continued growth and development.  The potted orange trees in my yard are great examples. After a couple of months into the warmer months, the leaves show signs of yellowing which is a symptom of nitrogen deficiency.  A little bit of complete fertilizer quickly restores the nice green coloration of the leaves. 

Summer gardening is fun as long as we beat the effects of high temperatures.

Summer Grooming for the Chives

Chives (Allium schoenoprasum): Reproductive stage.

At this time of the year, chives shift growth and development from vegetative to reproductive phase.  Flowers develop and then seeds follow.  Although the flowers are very ornamental with lavender color, the plants stop producing leaves when their flowers come out.  

The young flowers are edible and make good additions to salads.  However, if you want the chives to continue producing green parts, trick the plant into thinking that flowering is over by trimming it down to remove the developing seeds. It is best to remove or trim the flowers off on or before they start to fade. This not only encourages renewed vegetative growth but it also prevents the spread of chives seeds all over the yard.   They can become perennial weeds if allowed to disperse in places where they are not welcome to grow. 

If your herb is planted in a pot, apply a small amount of complete fertilizer to replenish the nutrients that got washed out by frequent watering.

The chives were cut very close to the soil - about one inch was left.

Ten days after cutting back:  Vegetative stage.

Trim your chives for a continuous supply of this aromatic herb.

Germinating a Mango Seed

Cut close on the thin side of the seed to break the seed coat slightly.

In the tropics where mangoes come from, seedlings can be found growing on compost piles or along sidewalks.  The place is humid and hot that seeds thrown away can germinate voluntarily.   Here on the other hand, the air is so dry that this recalcitrant seed has to be treated in a special manner for the seed to grow.  

This spring and all of summer we will be eating a lot of imported mangoes as usual.  I thought that I would try to germinate some seeds and see if they will make a good houseplant.  Avocados for example are sometimes treated as houseplants in places where they cannot grow successfully outdoors. 

What I Did to Germinate a Mango Seed

The mango has a recalcitrant seed which means that it cannot withstand drying and freezing.  The seed needs to be kept in a moist condition immediately after extracting the seed for the fruit. 

1.  Scrape as much pulp as possible from the seed using a knife.

2.  Cut across the thin side of the seed to break the fibrous seed coat.  This will reduce the length of germination period.

3.  Wrap the seed with a moist paper towel to provide the moisture that the seed needs.

4.  Place the wrapped seed in a clear plastic bag and seal it to prevent the paper from drying. 

5.  If necessary re-moisten the paper towel after a couple of weeks.  Return to plastic bag until the radicle (the first root from a seed) starts to protrude after three to four weeks depending on temperatures. 

6.  Plant in a pot (1 gal).  Keep it watered. The process will be long but once the leaves are out the plant will grow a lot faster.

After three weeks inside the plastic bag, the radicle has started to grow.

As soon as I see something happens, rest assured that I will let you know.  I am really curious to see how mango seedlings do on this side of the globe.

Planting Small Seeds

I find it useful to cover the planted area with clear plastic sheets (such as saran wrap) to conserve the heat in the soil and prevent loss of moisture...

Covered with plastic sheets after planting - April 29, 2010

Less than a month ago I sowed seeds of the following small-seeded vegetables in my garden:

1.  Sweet Basil (Ocimum basilicum)

2.  Bok choy or Pechay ((Brassica rapa)

3.  French Breakfast Radishes (Raphanus sativus)

4.  Corn salad (Valerianella locusta)

Sometimes starting seeds directly in the ground can be a little bit tricky depending on the weather conditions.  Some of the factors that can affect germination outdoors are temperature, soil moisture, and pests (birds, snails and insects).  Low temperatures and insufficient soil moisture can delay germination.  Delayed germination consequently result in lower germination rate as some of the seeds loose viability as the conditions shift from favorable to stressful.  Sown seed can also be eaten by birds depending on the depth of soil cover.  The week that I sowed the seeds was warm and I thought that it would stay that way.  On the contrary, the weather got cold the following week; I had to do some remedial tricks to save my seeds.  I find it useful to cover the planted area with clear plastic sheet (such as saran wrap) to conserve the heat in the soil and prevent loss of moisture while the seeds are still in the process of germination.  Seeds need to imbibe sufficient moisture for the germination process to begin that's why it is important to maintain moisture.  Another advantage of putting this covering on the soil is protection from birds and even snails that can eat the emerging seeds.


When the seeds have emerged, I removed the plastic covering. At this point maintained soil moisture is still necessary although the roots have now grown to penetrate further into the soil for water.

Emerging radish-seedlings - May 4, 2010

Radishes - May 19, 2010

Bok choy - May 19, 2010

Basil - May 17, 2010

Of the four types of seed planted, the radishes emerged first, followed by bok choy, then basil.  The last one that emerged was the corn salad plant. 

More Succulents

I happened to be at Home Depot buying a new dishwasher and as a general rule I had to swing by the nursery.  Of course it is hard to go there without being heart-broken watching those poor plants without any home. (Just kidding...) I got a couple more to add to my new collection of succulents.  I am continually amazed at the various shapes, color, texture and architecture of their leaves.  I always prefer to buy in the smallest pots because they are cheaper and I like to understand the behavior of the plants by watching them grow.

It is a good idea to check the condition of the plants by looking at the roots before buying them.   If you have a choice, get the ones that combine good foliage and root system (the sign of a healthy plant).  Root-bound plants are already stressed;  they will take longer time to get established in your garden. 

Transplant (repot) new plants into slightly bigger pots to allow more room for the roots and to give a base that is proportional to the size of the foliage.  My plants are exposed to winds; the smaller plants and those with large leaves are prone to being blown away.  Therefore, I prefer heavier pots over plastic ones.

Echeveria shaviana

Compact Mini Jade (Crassula argentea 'Compacta')

Graptosedum 'Alpenglow'/'Vera Higgins'

 Aloe Hybrid (Aloe 'Crosby's Prolific')