My Cymbidium Photo Gallery 2015

This is the time of year when my cymbidiums are in bloom and thus the obligatory orchid photo-shoot.  The variety names of these ones are not known to me but I will let the flowers speak of their kind.  

New this year - I got it as a gift. 

The only green-colored one in my collection - always blooms earlier than the others.

New this year - Bought from the Farmer's Market in Marina, California

New this year - Bought from an ethnic grocery store in Marina, California.

One of my old time favorites - turns pinkish when the temperatures are low.

New this year - bought from Marina, California.

I've had this for a long time.

Cymbidiums are not only beautiful - they also lasting.   

Try growing one this year 

Re-potting and Dividing Cymbidium - Again

Fig. 1  Cymbidium:  Winter of 2014

Three years ago I repotted my cymbidiums into three gallon containers.  This year (late spring) I divided them again after they all finished blooming; turning each plant into three individual plants. In some cases I hesitated to divide them because I like seeing multitudes of spikes (instead of two or three per plant) shooting from among the sword-like sheaths of green leaves, so I repotted them into larger containers.  One of them now resides in a fifteen gallon container.  It will be interesting to see how it will perform next blooming season.

Fig. 2   Cymbidium in  a 10-gallon container.

2010 Potting Medium

Motivated by the high cost of bagged orchid mix, I thought of making my own mix for my cymbidiums as follows:

Decomposed redwood bark (.25 - 0.5 inch)

Perlite

Handful of  potting soil

I used three years ago worked.  The plants did well - with lots of blooms and good root system.  The bark decomposed into very fine compost which I scattered along the rows of boxwood near my vegetable garden.

2014 Potting Medium

This year I used yet a different mix:  

Bark (0.5 - 1.0 inches)

Peat moss

Garden soil

With the current drought that we are experiencing, the peat moss would help retain more water allowing for less frequent watering.  Larger-size bark was used to allow good air movement around the root area.

Fig. 3  Cymbidiums lined up along south-facing wall.

Fig. 4  Newly repotted orchids.

Fig. 5    Pink cymbidiums:  Winter 2014

Fig. 6    Yellow cymbidiums

Right now, my orchids are doing well in their new growing media but it took them a while to get used to their new root environment.  I will be posing a new update come fall.

 

Cymbidium Season

There is a season for everything.  In my garden, now is cymbidium season.   While the rest of the plants are just beginning to awake from their winter rest, these outdoor orchids are putting on a spectacular show. 

Cymbidium flowers have an incredibly long life span. When left outdoor under a protected area the blooms can last from four to six weeks depending on prevailing temperatures and available moisture. Based on my experience, they can outlive their desirability. With clean water, cut flowers have a vase-life of two to three weeks.

Cymbidiums prefer being outdoors where they can get bright lights but away from direct hot sun, gusty winds and frost.  Here in our Zone 9 area, night time temperatures still come close to freezing at times and the ornamental pear tree (Bradford) that provides a protective shelter in the summer is still bare at this time.  And although these orchids can withstand some frost, we usually move them into the patio for protection during the cold months of January-March and also for a little cover from direct sunlight.  When they are done blooming they go back where they can get as much sunlight as they can while temperatures are still below "scorching-levels". This arrangement works well for me since the patio is right next to the dining room window; we get to enjoy the flowers more. It is alright to bring the orchids indoors when they are bursting with flowers but they need to go back outside as soon as possible in order to keep the plants healthy and strong. Generally, I prefer to cut the flowers and leave the mother-plants outside. This way, next year's bloom is not compromised.

It is obvious from the pictures here that I need to learn the discipline of staking.  Staking is a process. It is not a one-time activity.  Success in staking can be achieved when the process is started when the spikes are short and then tied progressively higher as they lengthen.  Staked flower spikes look stately and elegant but the natural bent-look of their unsupported counterparts gives the appearance of freedom and playfulness in the cymbidium.  So it is a matter of preference.

  The name cymbidium comes from the ancient Greek word "kymbe" meaning hollow vessel - referring to the cupped base of the lip.  For that reason, cymbidium is also referred to as the boat orchid

Breaking Free

Fig. 1   Cymbidium flower bud (March 25, 2010).

The opening of the cymbidium flower is a slow process especially during this season when the night time temperatures are still close to freezing.  The good thing about his is that the flowers can be enjoyed at different stages.  

Petals are beginning to break the tight enclosure of the three sepals (Fig. 1).  The sepals make up the outer whorl of an orchid flower. 

Fig. 2  The sepals beginning to reveal the petals. 

Inside the tight protection of the sepals are the petals.   Cymbidiums have three petals.  Two of them are identical and similar to the sepals in structure.  The third of the three petals is different is shape, texture, and coloration.  It is called the lip or labellum.  I've always wondered why it called so but actually it looks like a lip that has been smeared with lipstick.   This characteristic of the labellum is not obvious in these pictures but it can be observed  from my previous posts.  The yellow tissue that is seen through the small opening (Fig. 2) is called the tongue.  

Fig. 3    Unharmed by the storm we just had.

The opening of the flowers is a concert of events leading towards one goal - pollination.   Each event happens only at the appointed time.  The opening of the petals has to coincide with the production of the right chemicals that produce the smell and the color that attract the right pollinators.   When conditions force the flower to move forward out of schedule, it will fail to accomplish its task. 



Slowly but surely, the flowers are working to do their jobs. 

Cymbidium: Factors Contributing to Improved Blooming

The flowers beginning to open.

This green cymbidium which I called Cymbidium California 'Sun Acres' is blooming like crazy right now.  There are five spikes arising from one plant; each spike bearing at least 12 to 16 flowers.  Compared to last year when the same plant showed only one spike with seven flowers, this year's flower yield is dramatically more.  The difference in the vigor of the plant could be attributed to the following factors:

1.  Age.  The plant has grown more since last year.  In orchids shoots and pseudo-bulbs result in more flower spikes.

2.  Fertilizer.  Complete fertilizer was applied twice during the growing season.   This orchid is responsive to fertilization both in terms of growth (shoots) and flowering (spikes).

3.  Light.  The plant has been placed in an area (south-facing) where it was getting sunlight as opposed to the previous year when (because of my lack of know-how) I kept the cymbidiums in the most shady part of the garden.

4.  Orchid mix and Room to grow.  The plant was transferred into a bigger pot with new and fresh orchid mix that I formulated. The formula seemed to work and the increased pot sizes probably increased root growth. 

4.  Differential temperature.  This is the difference between the maximum (day) temperature and the minimum (night) temperature that the plant is exposed to.  Flower initiation in cymbidium is mostly a function of differential temperature. Depending on variety or species, 10-20 degree-difference is required before flower initiation begins.  The current southern-exposure location provided a longer time for the plant to be exposed to a sharper differential temperature.  One reason why cymbidiums kept indoors do not bloom is that the growing temperatures are kept almost constant. 

5.  Visibility and Proximity.  As they say, "out of sight out of mind", plants that are not seen often tend to be less cared for. The cymbidiums were moved into an area next to the back door where I could see them while doing the dishes.  Seeing them reminds me more often to attend to their needs (water and fertilizer).  Although the plant is tolerant to some degree of harsh growing conditions, it responds positively when environmental stresses are alleviated before they reach critical stage.  

Cymbidium is an outdoor orchid; for optimum flowering, treat it as an outdoor plant.  

Cymbidium Updates

As of this week, spikes are coming out from the Cymbidium California 'Sun Acres'.  Compared to last year's bloom, these flowers are coming out early.  Considering that we just got into fall season not that long ago, this is indeed a pleasant surprise.  Last year I learned that flower initiation in cymbidiums is greatly affected by the differential temperatures (maximum and minimum) of the day.   They require between 10-20 degrees (F) difference between the day and night time temperatures before flower initiation depending on variety.  Out of the five different cymbidiums I repotted last spring, only this variety is flowering so far.  However, all of them are looking very healthy which indicates that they are all set to put on their own show and just waiting for the opportune moment. 

I intended to pursue cymbidium as my new hobby plant for this year.  My plan was to buy at least 100 plantlets for a start.  My husband, who is always very supportive, already purchased all the pots that I would use for this purpose.  These pots, which are still in a huge box, haunt me every time I see them in the garage. And yet, here I am still vacillating as to whether it is a good idea or not. 

Gardening is a time-sensitive endeavor.  A delay in implementation moves the reward further away.

Cymbidiums: Good Things are Happening

Transplanted pseudobulb with new shoots.

New Growths on Pseudobulb.  Pseudobulbs are the swollen orchid stems where leaves are attached to.  When the leaves die and abscise during the season, pseudobulb is not relieved of its function.   Leafless it may be it serves as a reservoir of water and nutrients for the plant.  The picture you see above is a product my one mistake.  I detached the pseudobulb from the plant and planted it to see if new plant comes out.   This is not recommended since it would deprive the rest of the plants from the good stuff stored in it.  

New growths showing up

My inexpensive potting mixture is working.  Last May I experimented on the potting mixture that I used to repot the orchids.  I observe that the plants seem to like it as indicated by the number of new pseudobulbs coming out.   Spike is the term used to refer to the inflorescence or the flowers in cymbidiums.  As a general rule, a spike comes out at the base of each new pseudobulb.  If these plants continue with their current growth trend then I can safely say that you and I can save a lot of money by making our own cymbidium potting mix.

Cooler spot.  Cymbidiums love the sunshine but the blazing summer light intensity is too much for these traditionally-understory plants to bear.  For now I have moved the orchids to a more shady part of the yard.   The good thing about potted plants is that the microclimate can be adjusted easily by moving them around.

Repotting Cymbidium

I transferred the cymbidiums from their original one-gallon pots to three-gallon ones.  Orchid mixes are very expensive so I am experimenting on cheaper alternatives.  In the forests where these orchids (not the hybrids) originate, they are growing under and on trees or in between dead plant materials.  They don't require a specified formula of potting mix.   I used ordinary semi-composted bark mulch and added some Perlite and a handful of potting soil.  Some experts might question the ingredients but this is my experiment.  It is hard to convince myself into using imported materials like coconut parts and pay huge amounts of money.  I'd like to train my orchids to go local.  :)

Two More

It's happening...I am slowly being converted into a cymbidium enthusiast!  Well, not quite.  I only gave in to buying two more orchids from Costco.  Just like the other two that I already have, these were not labeled; therefore I could not tell what variety or hybrids they are. I can either do my research and make my best guess or I will just content myself in differentiating them by their colors.  After all, I only have four orchids, so far.

Last Saturday, Tim and I attended a Cymbidium Show in Sacramento.   The cymbidium display was not particularly impressive...maybe because for a neophyte like me, the orchids all looked the same except for color and size.  Maybe as I learn more about them that I will also develop the eye to appreciate the variation among varieties.  In one corner, however, were old issues of Cymbidium Society of America (CSA) Journals as give-away; I picked up a couple.  After reading about an interview with Loren Batchman of Casa De Las Orquideas, it seems like a door has been opened for my imagination to wander.  I am now inspired to play around with this genus of the Orchidaceae family.  I hope that the challenges of our dry weather condition will not reduce this new excitement into ningas cogon. 

Lost Name

Cymbidium California 'Sun Acres', HCC/AOS

California = Cymbidium Blue Smoke X Cymbidium Alexanderi

Sometimes flower varieties are not always indicated on their labels.  For example, this orchid just came with the label "Cymbidium".  In as much as I am planning to grow some more cymbidium this year, I did some research on the one that I already have.  My closest guess based on flower appearance would be Cymbidium California 'Sun Acres'.   So until proven wrong, I will assume that this is the variety I have.

This orchid displays nice tall spikes of vibrant yellow-green flowers with lips that are ringed with burgundy markings.  It is blooming now (February).

Cymbidium

Forgotten in a corner of my garden are two Cymbidium orchids. Tim had bought them for me years ago.  Without doing my research I assumed that they were extremely sensitive to heat so I placed them in a shady corner of my garden where they hardly ever got any sunlight.  Last year during the later part of fall, I moved them to the backyard where they got the southern sun everyday and got watered more often.  The results are these stalks of flowers.  I can only imagine what would have happened if I had taken the time to fertilizer them.

These flower buds, called spikes, inspired me to do some research and in retrospect, analyze the cultural management I gave to my plants and their growth behavior.   Right now I have more confident in growing Cymbidium...I've learned some lessons.

Summary of lessons I learned:

1. Differential Temperature.  The differential temperature between the nights and days is the most important factor in flower initiation.  Depending on the species there should at least be 10 to 20-degree differential before the spikes (these are the flowers) would start to grow.  Where summer temperatures are high, air circulation plays an important role in alleviating the adverse effects of heat.

2.  Maintained Moisture.  Since orchids are tropical in nature, moisture should be maintained to optimize their performance.  In places other than the humid tropics, watering or misting is a necessary part of orchid growing.  Water frequently so as not to allow the growth media to get too wet. It is important to keep the roots cool or at least cooler than the existing atmospheric temperature.  Watering need to be adjusted depending on the following factors: season, relative humidity, temperature, type of pot and type of media.

3.  Regulated Light.  As much as Cymbidium orchids love light there is also a limit to that. Unfavorable light conditions can be determined through the behavior of the leaves.  Healthy leaves are shiny firm light green which curve outward gracefully. Yellow green leaves indicate too much light.  Increase shade or move the plants where they get less exposed to light; Folding and drooping of the leaves indicate low light.  Shading is almost always necessary during the hot summer months.  Shading helps reduce evaporation and transpiration. 

4.  Less Amount and More Frequent Fertilization.   Cymbidiums are epiphytic which means that they get their water and nourishment from the water vapor (in the air) that comes in contact with their roots.  Fertilization is important especially during the growing period (warmer months).   Applied fertilizer can be washed off easily with watering therefore it would seem practical to frequently apply small dosage of the nutrients.  Some growers suggest once every ten days or three times a month.  The use of slow-release fertilizer will effectively reduce the frequency of application.

5.  Growth Medium.  The two important characteristics of the growth media are good-moisture holding capacity and good drainage.  Remember, the orchid gets the water from the air. 

I hope that I have inspired and encouraged some home gardeners out there to do an experiment with Cymbidium.  After all they are easy and beautiful.  Who knows, I too might buy another Cymbidium plant from Costco.

Stroll in your garden, it's good for you and your plants.