Dividing Fox Tail Agave

 

Fox Tail Agave (Agave attenuata) 

If you are familiar with Agave attenuata, you are aware that they are beautiful plants to have. They make a dramatic statement wherever they are in the garden.  In addition to that they are also easy to grow.  However, they tend to get woody and heavy.   Like most succulents, the leaves serve as water storage and so you can imagine the weight.  They are also very phototropic which means that they tend to grow towards the source of light.  For a while I grew two of these in large pots which are equivalent to five gallons.  They were positioned in the yard against the east facing wall of our house.  They got the milder morning sun and were shaded by the house later in the afternoon. The condition was favorable for their growth, they got big but growing towards only one side.  Soon the pots could not stand without much help anymore because of their weight. 

My plants needed to be repotted two years ago but the job seemed daunting.  I procrastinated.  But during these days we have a lot of time to spare.  I asked my husband helped me.  First of all we had to break the pot - they were totally root bound and there was no way of separating the roots from the pot without breaking the plants - and then break the individual heads.

Agave in our front yard.  It's about to fall on one side.  

These are the things I learned from the process:

1.  Agave attenuata are great for handling, they don't hurt you.

2.  Hand saw works perfectly for cutting the stems apart.  

3.  Remove all the old roots.  The newly cut stems will have to problem growing new roots.

4.  If the stems are too long and they can be shortened by cutting the stem with the saw. 

5.  Soak the ends of the stems in water for a couple of days or plant them directly. 

6.  Separate all the little pups and plant them in appropriately sized pots to have more plants.  

7. The little plants are perfect for giving away to friends and neighbors.

Newly repotted Agave attenuata

Note: In spite of the number of years that I had these plants, they haven't bloomed in my possession yet - in other words they have not shown me their fox tail yet. And for that reason, I still feel more comfortable calling them Agave attenuata. 😃

Some tasks in the garden might seem daunting but when we confront them, we become more informed.

Aeonium haworthii: Survival Mechanism

Fig. 1    Aeonium haworthii 'Pinwheel' 

Aeonium haworthii (Pinwheel) is a succulent species in the Crassulaceae family. Because this plant has been growing in my garden for so long, I am a witness to the behavior of this plant at least in our USDA Zone 9 area.  It is a sturdy plant which can thrive with minimal care.  The winters here are harsh and summers are very dry and very hot and yet there has been no mortality to account for - the plant just doesn't die.  However depending on the microclimate and eventually the plant may undergo some levels of stress in the drier months.

Fig. 2    Curled in leaves:  Behavior of stressed plants

This year we had recurring problem with faulty drip irrigation where some plants were not getting watered and among them were the 'Pinwheels'.  And because they are succulents it takes longer before physical signs of stress become noticeable.  Sometimes when the symptoms become visible, the physiological stress is already at an advanced stage. Symptoms happen is stages.  Firstly is the yellowing of the lower leaves on the stem.    Then these leaves abscise (fall off the plant), but that is easily ignored as the more prominent parts of the plants are still normal.  Then the third stage is more recognizable:  the leaves begin to curl in to form a seemingly closed flower as in Fig. 2.  This the the point when even the untrained eye will notice the symptoms.

So several of my plants exhibited this third stage.  But my point here is to give emphasis to the ability of the plant to survive after it has undergone critical conditions.  It has been my observation that when stressed-plants experience the first sign of favorable condition, through rain or watering, they respond very quickly.  Adventitious roots grow (Fig. 3) from older stems at a very fast rate to take advantage of the moisture - first in the atmosphere and then into the ground.  This is one of the many survival mechanisms succulents rely on - which makes them withstand severely stressful conditions.

Fig. 3     Adventitious roots appear when favorable condition are sensed by the plant.

When a stem of this succulent plant is separated from the plant, it will behave as if it is the last of its kind and thus try to preserve its species (Fig. 4).  It will heal all wounds that potentially pose as outlets of the remaining water stored in its tissues.  The leaves protect the tender growing point and conserve moisture by curling in its leaves.  Dried as it may seem, the detached stem is ever sensing changes in the atmosphere.  Once favorable conditions occur, root growth commences  (Fig. 4).

Fig.  4     Detached stem of Aeonium haworthii 'Pinwheel' displays survival techniques.

Succulents are interesting plants indeed.

Kalanchoe Panamensis: Hidden Flowers

Kalanchoe panamemsis flowers:  dimpled heart-shaped pendants.

Since I started painting, I have become more observant of the little details of plants.  The desire to portray plants parts accurately, summons me to look at them more intensely than I used to.  Yesterday as I was walking in the secret garden (one section of my yard) where some succulents grow, I noticed something different with the Kalanchoe panamensis.  Some of the leaves seemed lacking the magenta color on leaf margins.  The initial question was, could it be that the terminal ends of these plants lose the pigmentation when the temperatures are low?  But upon close observation, it turned out that the plants were in bloom.  Then the next question was, why only now?  This plant has been in my garden for years.  Could it be that I was less observant then?  Or could it be that I was just not in the garden when flowering occurred in the past?

The flowers are generally light in color but some pigmentation were visible on random buds.

The Kalanchoe panamensis blooms on the terminal ends of the stems.  At this stage, the flowers look like heart-like pendants that hang in clusters.  They are beautiful now.  But I expect that these flowers still have to undergo several development stages.  And since all flowers must open, I'm excited to see how these ones will pave the way for pollination to happen.  Stay tuned. 😊

Kalanchoe panamemsis before flower initiation

Stroll in your garden and learn something new.  

Hummingbirds and Succulent Flowers

Hummingbirds are attracted to aloe vera flowers

Hummingbirds love the flowers of succulents.  Alright, maybe they don't love the flower per se but the nectar is like a special treat for them.  It has been my observation that they would check on these flowers way before they open.  Once the tubular flowers crack slightly the birds begin to stake their claim.  Any other hummingbird trying to intrude on well defended flowers, would soon find out that it was not a good idea.  

Hummingbirds will linger where there are plenty of food.

Fortunately for the resident hummingbirds, we have many different succulents in the yard -- that is in addition to three hummingbird feeders. Different succulent species bloom at different times which prolongs the season for nectar harvest for these birds.  Earlier this year some of the aeoniums and echeverias opened up.  At this time the aloe veras are in bloom. 

Hummingbirds always return to their favorite flower.

If you want to attract these beautiful creatures in your yard, plant something they like.  There are many plants that are known to attract hummingbirds, but one thing is true - succulent are among the easiest to grow. 

Entice the hummingbirds to stay in your garden - plant succulents.

Succulent Gardens

The Succulent Gardens located in 2133 Elkhorn Rd, Castroville, California is a remarkable destination for any gardener.  It functions as a nursery and demonstration center but it also boasts beautiful and mature succulent/cactus gardens.  I had the pleasure to take pictures and buy a few plants during our visit there earlier this year.  

 

Guttation in Succulents

Fig. 1  Guttation in Succulent Plant:  Leaf margins of Aeonium 'Pinwheel' studded with xylem sap.

Succulents are known for their ability to hold and store large quantities of water for future consumption.  These plants, which are characterized by their  thick succulent leaves, can store large quantities of water resulting in their ability to withstand prolonged dry conditions. These plants are not commonly known to exhibit guttation - the excretion of water from the plant through hydathodes due to certain atmospheric and soil conditions.  The pictures here (Fig. 1, 2, & 3), however, show that these water-thrifty succulents can have too much water. Given the right conditions, succulents undergo guttation.

  Fig. 2  Succulent leaves crowned with beads of guttation fluid.

Fig. 3  Senecio bearing guttation sap.

Plants are amazing creatures.

Growing 'Woolly Rose'

Fig. 1    Woolly Rose (Echeveria cristata 'Doris Taylor') flowers

Every summer in my garden, the Echeveria cristata 'Woolly Rose' (a.k.a. Echeveria 'Doris Taylor') sends out colorful flowers that look like candies.  The rosette foliage of this plant is covered evenly with a thick mat of trichomes that gives it a velvety appearance - thus the name Woolly Rose.   Not only the plant is beautiful but it is also a source of nectar for the hummingbirds (Fig. 2).  Whenever my plants bloom, I move the ones that are in pots to a place where we can enjoy the view from the kitchen window.  

Fig. 2    When in bloom, Echeveria cristata is a hummingbird magnet.

Tips in Growing Woolly Rose 

1.  Soil.  Plant Woolly Rose in the garden where the soil is well drained.  Improve drainage of clay soils by adding sand or pumice in planting area.  In containers, use cactus mix for good drainage and weight.  Adding good amount of Perlite and sand to regular potting soil works as well.  

2.  Sunlight.  Woolly Rose is adaptable to a wide range of environments but the plant will look its best in the right place.  In the summer (Zone 9), position Woolly Rose where it will get a few hours of morning sun or a short period of afternoon sun.  Too much exposure to sunlight will result in washed out yellowish color of the leaves while too little sunlight gives relatively greener foliage and longer internodes.  The right amount of sunlight will give the plant a bluish green color and compact rosette foliage.  Contrary to popular belief, succulents thrive best in partly shaded environment.

3.  Water.  The plant can tolerate periods of dry conditions but they grow faster and look better if they get adequate water.  Adjust watering based on the weather.  Watering is needed more frequently in summer and spring time, when the soil dries up faster, than in the cooler months of fall and winter.  The size of container is also a factor to consider when it comes to watering.  Plants in smaller containers require more frequent watering than those in larger containers/

Fig. 3    Echeveria cristata planted along with some Aloes.

 4.  Fertilizer.  Woolly Rose performs better when it gets sufficient soil nutrients.  Although the plant does not need a lot of fertilizer, it is responsive to fertilization during growing season.  A low dose of complete fertilizer is all the plant needs.  Succulent/cactus fertilizers (2-7-7 and 1-7-6), available at local nurseries, are easy to use and can be applied as often as every other week.  

5.  Protection from Frost.  Woolly Rose is easy to grow - the only problem, especially where I live, is the susceptibility of the plant to frost damage.  In areas where freezing temperatures are expected, protect the plant by moving them to a sheltered area.  With a little bit of protection this plant will continue to provide a delightful touch in the succulent garden.

6.  Propagation.  The plant is easy to propagate through cuttings.  Stem cuttings collected under the lowest leaves are the fastest to root.  Collect and stick the cuttings where there is a little bit of moisture and warmth. Figure 3 shows Woolly Rose growing from the sides of an orchid plant. Cuttings were directly planted into the holes.  Some succulents can be easily propagated from the leaves but this is not the case with Woolly Rose.  

Fig. 4   Trichome-covered rosette foliage.

Note:  Extreme temperatures, drought, and nutritional deficiency are conditions that can cause stress to Woolly Rose - all of which can contribute in the loss of the basal leaves and exposing a dark brown stem (Fig. 4).   However, this is not necessarily alarming.  In fact, this is a natural process that gives that plant an aged look. 

Super Bowl 2013: Go 49ers!

The Bay Bridge

We were in San Francisco last week visiting some of the horticultural points of interest at the Golden Gate Park.  As we approached the Conservatory of Flowers we saw recent plantings of succulents (Echeveria spp.) on both sides of the stairs that lead to the building.  The city is very proud of its team.  People show their support with their T-shirts, cars, cakes, hats...but the one that I favor the most is the one that is expressed through the gardens.  

Writing with Succulents

 "Rooting" with Succulents  :)

Happy Super Bowl, Everyone!

Succulents: Survivors of the Winter

Aloe spp.

When planning for hot and dry condition planting, succulents are often among the top candidates because of their ability to withstand prolonged periods of drought.  On the other when it comes to planning for winter interests, seldom do they ever get recommended.  This could be because of an unspoken assumption that when a plant is heat tolerant, it does not like the cold.  This assumption is not valid.  Like all gardeners who have grown some of them, I can say that with the appropriate variety and suitable location in the garden, succulents can be among the few interesting plants in the dead of the winter.  While the rest of the traditional plants go into dormancy, some succulents continue to grow changing their colors in response to the temperature and light intensity.

Echeveria 'Neon Breakers' (Fall)

Echeveria 'Neon Breakers'  (Winter)

Succulents cover a wide range of plant species that originated from places of varied climes.  Some have come from the tropics (rain might be prevalent but some succulents grow on trees where the roots cannot reach the ground); arid regions (deserts have low rainfall and high temperatures that limit water supply); coastal areas (water may be available but it is usually loaded with high levels of salts and minerals - beyond the threshold levels for most plants); and the alps (precipitation may come fresh in relatively larger quantities but it is frozen and unavailable for plant consumption).  With that in mind, it is not surprising that some succulents respond differently under varied  environmental conditions. And that is why, some succulents can be winter gems even in temperate areas.

Aeonium 'Kiwi'

      Sedum rubrotinctum 'Pork and Beans'

Succulents is the collective term for drought-tolerant plants with the characteristic thickened fleshy organs (leaves, stems, or roots).  Whether the plants evolved (over the years) to come up with this type of specialized fleshy tissues as survival mechanism or whether they were originally endowed with such characteristics the first time they sprouted in the Garden of Eden, I am not sure.  However, if such character traits of succulents allow them to survive the extreme dry conditions, how much more would they favor the plants that are grown in gardens where almost everything is manipulated to provide favorable conditions for the plants?

Wooly Rose (Echeveria cristata 'Doris Taylor')

California is known for its generally mild climates but my garden - being in the foothills of the Sierras - experiences both ends of the thermal spectrum.   We have very hot summers and freezing winters.  Over the years I have observed that only few of the succulents in my collection are susceptible to the cold.  In fact most of them are very resilient and they display very interesting colors during the colder months.


Aeoniums, Sempervivums, Aloes, and Sedums are among the ones that consistently do well in my garden.  Others like Echeveria also do well depending on variety and microclimate. The earlier they get the morning sun, the better - as this would shorten their exposure to freezing temperatures.  Although succulents prefer some amount of shade in the summer, plants that are placed on the south-facing side of the garden have a better chance of withstanding the harsh winter nights.

   

With the right variety and microclimate, succulents can be the garden gem that sparkles in the winter.

Echeveria 'Neon Breakers'

Echeveria hybrid 'Neon Breakers'

Echeveria hybrid 'Neon Breakers' has been added to my succulent collection this week.   It is a relatively new patented plant which is similar to but more robust than the unpatented commercially grown Echeveria shaviana 'Pink Frills'.  It is a beautiful plant with very marked red-colored ruffled leaf-margins.  It will be interesting to see how it performs in my garden..

'Neon Breakers' resulted from the breeding work of Renee O"Connell in 2005.

HortiCOOLture: Enormous Aloe

Fig. 1   Aloe arborescens  (February 18, 2012 Pacific Grove, California)

A. arborescens, also known as A. perfoliata var. arborescens is commonly named as Octopus plant, Candelabra aloe, or Torch plant.  The plant is multi-branched with rosettes of tentacle-like, partly concave leaves, thus the name octopus.  Like most succulents, A. arborescens blooms once a year (spring to summer).  Each rosette then sends out a terminal upright raceme that is covered with red flowers - transforming the plant to resemble the appearance of a chandelier (Fig. 1). 

According to the AHS, this plant is a native of Malawi, Mozambique, Zimbabwe, and South Africa.  Based on the size of this plant (Fig. 1), however, the California coast seems to provide favorable conditions for its growth.  

This enormous Aloe arborescens is stunning but I will not have it in my yard because its leaves are sharply-serrated. 

Broken to Beautiful

Fig. 1     Foxtail ferns (Asparagus densiflorus 'Myers') are a common sight in my garden.

One of my favorite container plants is the Foxtail fern (Asparagus densiflorus 'Myers'). In a pot (Fig. 1), I can move them from one place to another in the yard where an instant color is needed.  Foxtail ferns develop vigorous root system along with water storage organs.   This feature makes the plant a celebrity-drought-tolerant plant.  As a container plant, however, the same vigorous roots system causes a slight draw back.  The plant gets root-bound easily.  

Fig. 2     Pressure from the foxtail fern (Asparagus densiflorus) roots broke the terra cotta pot.

The problem.  In my garden the super-powered roots of the Asparagus densiflorus defied the shape of its container pot (Fig. 2).  It is very obvious that this plant is in a desperate need of more room to grow.   Dividing the plant at this point would only mean breaking the already-broken pot.  I was not sold to this idea.

Fig. 3     Sempervivum-pups in a row.

The Solution.   I cut off some of the roots that have been dried out from being exposed through the crack - to make room for a little bit of potting soil.  Using sempervivum that are available from my garden, I planted the crack with similarly drought tolerant plants (Fig. 3).

Fig. 4   These plants (Sempervivum - hen and chicks) look like they have been there all the time.

The outcome.   The crack no longer looks like a disgrace (Fig. 4).  As soon as the temperatures get warmer, these "ever-living" runners will send their own roots into the thicket to join the foxtail fern's roots.   Today, I saw a bird trying to get peck on the new plants which tells me that a wire around the plants might be necessary for the time being. 

Finally, to avoid such thing from happening in your gardens, divide potted foxtail ferns at least every two years.  For bulbous containers like the one I used here (Fig. 2 and Fig. 4) division is even more critical because at a certain point the plant cannot be pulled out without damaging the container.    

 

A little bit of imagination can transform some problems into blessings.

Gardening and Microclimate

Fig. 1  Mature plant communities at Filoli Gardens.

Gardening is all about harnessing microclimate.  After so many years of studying, observing, and putting all techniques learned into practical use in growing plants, I've arrived to the conclusion that the complexity of gardening boils down to understanding microclimate.  The magnitude of the effects of genetics and management practices on the overall success of gardening can be enhanced or diminished by the immediate growing environment - microclimate.  Microclimate is the unique condition within the immediate surroundings of a given small area. It takes into account the interaction of the following factors: light (intensity, duration), temperature, wind/turbulence, moisture, soil condition, and topography.  It is affected by the presence or absence of structures such buildings, pavements, trees, slopes, orientation, and plants around the area.  

Gardening on the basis of the USDA Hardiness Zone alone is not enough.  Every gardener knows that different plants require different conditions for optimum growth.  The plants we buy from nurseries come with labels that indicate the most basic and generic condition for growth.  The terms full sun, partial sun, partial shade, shade, all suggest a preferred microclimate for the specific plant.  Some plants need direct full sunlight while others prefer attenuated sunlight light allowing them to perform best under tall trees (Fig. 1).  However, one must consider that a full sun in Seattle may not the same as that in Sacramento.  

Fig. 2  Eastern side: Growing trees and hedges affect the amount of sunlight and wind turbulence in the garden.

Microclimates in My Backyard.  Even small backyard gardens like mine have several distinct microclimates.  The eastern side (Fig. 2) of the house is a lot different from the southern side (Fig. 3).  The former gets an early but short exposure to sunlight while the latter gets a later, prolonged and higher-intensity sunlight.  At the western side of the house light reflects from the white wall and wind circulation is limited because of the close distance between the house and the fence.  The north side is still another microclimate where the sun comes only late in the afternoon.  The best performing plant on this side is the Cecile Brunner rose which has extended itself to reach the top of the roof where it can get enough sunlight  (Fig. 4).  My garden is now a lot shadier than it was twelve years ago.  The trees have matured and the place where I used to plant strawberries now gets only two hours of  dappled sunlight during a summer day.  (One good effect of the lack of sunlight is that there are no more weeds growing there.)

 

Fig. 3 Southern side of the garden.

Fig.  4  Northern side: Cecile Brunner rose

  

Fig.  5.  Location for a bench -  shade or sun?

The Bench Comparison.  In gardening, finding the right microclimate is like finding the right place for a bench (Fig. 5).  Depending on the location, one can either enjoy sitting on it or suffer.  But then again, it also depends on the goal of the person sitting on the bench.  My friend, Sue, would like her bench to be in the sun while I like it to be in the shade.  With restraint, both bench positions are good depending on the desired effect.  

 Crassula argentea 'Compacta' under two microclimates. 

Fig. 6   Grown on the eastern side of the yard.

Two years ago  I bought a compact mini jade plant (Crassula argentea 'Compacta') in a 3 inch pot.  Since then the plant has grown and been divided into two separate plants in 6" pots.  One of them (Fig. 6) was located on the east-facing side of the yard.  The other one (Fig. 7) was positioned in the south-facing side of the yard where it was exposed to prolonged direct sunlight. It was definitely hotter on this side of the yard; the soil also dried up faster than its east-facing counterpart.

Fig. 7  Grown on the the southern side of the yard.

There was a sharp contrast between the two plants when it comes to color.  More sunlight (Fig 7) resulted in yellowish leaves with very pronounced red leaf margins.  Shorter direct sunlight resulted in darker green leaves (Fig. 6).  As long as the needs of the plants are all met at the right amount, the two plants function normally but to the naked eye, microclimate within their growing area is reflected through their coloration.   These are occurrences that we so often take for granted.  But if you think about it, a gardener can actually manipulate the color of these jade plants to suit their preferences by strategically planting them in the right microclimate. 

Spring is right around the corner and planting season is here.  Make sure to re-acquaint yourself with the ever-changing microclimates around your garden.  It is the most important consideration in your choice of plants and even timing of activities in your garden.

"Sufficient knowledge of your microclimates will help you understand your gardening successes and failures."