Peaches are Ripe Again

It is that time of the year when we are flooded with peaches.  What this means is that peaches will be served every meal for a couple of weeks and I will be busy preserving the ones we cannot consume or share with our neighbors.  Sometimes it is hard to decipher whether this is a blessing or burden.  One thing is sure - it starts as the former and ends as the later. :)

The tree has a sad history.  The tree has suffered severe cases of  leaf curl (Taphrina deformans) in the past years drastically reducing the canopy cover not only for purposes of photosynthesis but for shading.  The location of the tree can get very hot in the summer - the sun exposed portion of the trunk can crack and separates from the cambium layer.  At present the bark on half of the trunk's girth is peeling off. We pruned the tree last year with the intention of eventually removing it.  In fact, already I bought a pluot tree to take it's place (close to the plum tree). But this year's peach crop tells me to delay the process.

Plant a fruit tree this year for the enjoyment of many 

generations to come. 

First Fig Fruit...

Fig (Ficus carica 'Brown Turkey')

At last my own fig tree bears fruits!  And it has a name - unlike the volunteer fig that has been planted by birds around my yard.  This one is 'Brown Turkey' which I chose because the tree is supposed to be a more compact than the other traditional varieties such as 'Mission' fig.

The fig fruit is very fascinating.  It is a synconium or an inverted fruit. The fig synconium is made up of multiple fruits that are fused together.  Each seed is an individual aggregate fruit.  It is similar to the strawberry, except the arrangement is reversed. The seeds in strawberry are on the surface of the fruit while the seeds in the figs are inside.  That description almost makes the fig a normal fruit.  But the fact that the fig flowers were never outside of the fruit makes it completely an odd fruit.  

Synconium:  the flowers open inside the fruit.  

Fig is probably among the earliest domesticated plants on earth.  It is mentioned multiple times in the Old Testament Bible as part of the life of mankind in the old days.  For example: the presence of a fig tree, is referred as one of the features of a good land (Deuteronomy 8:7-9); and the shade of a fig tree is symbolizes a place of safety (1 Kings 4:25).  Having a fig tree in my yard seems like owning a time machine that brings me back to that time in history.    

To eat figs off the tree in the morning, when they have been barely touched by the sun, is one of the exquisite pleasures of owning a fig tree.

Looking Back: Heavy Lessons on Thinning Young Fruits

Peaches in my garden - summer 2013 

Too much of anything is not a good thing.  There is balance to be observed between that which is beneficial and that which is permissible for a healthy life - plants included.   This year we were delighted to see a beautiful crop of peaches which is attributed to the absence of leaf curl infection.  The drier weather from late winter to early spring was not conducive for the proliferation of the pathogen Taphrina deformans.  In previous years, the tree would lose all its early leaves leaving the developing fruits to starve until the new set of healthy leaves come out.  Sometimes the fruits also get infected which results not only in low yield but poor quality crop.  

As the fruits grew larger under the summer sun, the problem slowly surfaced.  The slender stems laden with fruits began to hang straight downwards.  One of the larger branches was so heavy. I was afraid that it might break.  We had to prop it up with three pieces of 2x4x8 lumber.  I admit that my tree is not in its best form.  Pruning on this tree has been mainly for the purpose of making sure it does not arch into our neighbors' yard.  (I doubt they appreciate peaches falling into their swimming pool.)  This effort has led to the formation of a lop-sided tree.  It is a nice tree but it not strong enough to bear a heavy crop.  

   

A heavy fruit load can be detrimental to the tree.

Based on the situation described here, the problem that needed to be addressed is excessive fruits.
Under favorable growing conditions, such as what we had this year, fruit trees set more fruits than they can support adequately.  And this problem is magnified when trees have not been properly pruned in the previous season.  A heavy fruit load can result in branch breakage.  When there are too many fruits competing for carbohydrates, the fruits cannot reach their optimum size.  The tree also gets nutritionally deprived and weakened - making it more susceptible to pests and even sunburn damage.  Another possible effect of excessive fruits on trees is alternate bearing (the cycle in which the tree bears a heavy crop in one year and a skimpy or no yield in the next).  This phenomenon happens when the tree is nutritionally deprived while supporting its fruits - a situation that will continue to plague my tree until I will muster enough discipline to remove the excess fruits when they are young.  

Rule for fruit thinning:  Mature fruits should not be touching each other.

Peaches are among the fruit trees that require fruit thinning for best results - superior quality fruits are produced while maintaining a healthy tree.  As a general rule, allow room in between fruits so that at maturity fruits should not be touching each other.

Plums for the Season

Santa Rosa plums (Prunus domestica 'Sana Rosa').

Baskets of dark ripe plums have always been one of the defining marks of summer in our home.  In some years we need smaller baskets than others, but there never was a year when we did not have plums ever since we planted the tree.  Traditionally, I would preserve enough plum sauce for us and our extended family.  This year, I did not get to do any canning (except for a couple jars of plum syrup) which I hurriedly make on the day we left for Taiwan.  It was a good thing that our friends from church came to pick them while we were gone - at least the fruits were consumed and not wasted.

One week before harvest.

Towards the southern side of the plum is a mulberry tree which is growing at a very fast rate. It will have to be trimmed if not pollarded so as not to jeopardize the productivity of the plum. 

 

My daughter is perched on the mulberry tree.

 

The garden presents a never-ending list of opportunities and challenges that varies from season to season.  The gardener may never master the garden but with persistence, every experience is an added arrow into his quiver.

Fallen Stars: Effects of High Temperature on Pomegranate Fruit Set

Fig. 1     Pomegranate (Punica granatum L. 'Wonderful') flowers on the ground.

A star is a promise of illumination - like a flower is an early promise of a fruit to come. This season, my pomegranate tree (Punica granatum L. 'Wonderful') growing in a large pot is producing numerous bright colored flowers.  However, this week the flowers are dropping like falling stars (Fig. 1) at a very high rate.   The only factor that I can attribute this to is the sudden rise in temperature - from the 70s to high 90s (F).

Fig. 2     Pomegranate at an early stage.

Temperature and humidity both play an important role in fruitfulness of orchard trees.  As a general rule, lower temperatures - without the frost - is most conducive to better flower initiation, successful pollination, and fruit set.  On the other hand, high temperatures (90+ degrees F) and low humidity can result in the abscission of flower buds and fruitlets (Fig. 1) - leading to unfruitfulness.  In our area, winter and early spring temperatures may be favorable but summer temperatures can be detrimental - hastening the deterioration of the embryo sac and the premature senescence of the ovules. 

Based on last year's observations,  Pomegranate 'Wonderful' blooms continuously from spring to fall (Fig.3).  Some of the earlier flowers managed to set already (Fig. 2).  I am assuming that there are more fruits yet to set when the temperatures relent once more.  But we'll see...after all, this is only the second blooming year for this tree.

 

Fig. 3    Pomegranate (Punica granatum 'Wonderful') in bloom.

 

High temperatures inhibit fruit set in a number of plants.  The reason for this was demonstrated in a study on flower development and fruit set in apricot (Prunus armeniaca).  Results showed that warmer temperatures hastened that external development of flowers without significant advances in pistil development.  For fertilization to take place, the pollen and the pistil need to be synchronized.  Under warm temperatures the flower can unfurl its petals that attract pollinators but the ovules are immature.  I hate to use this analogy but it is like a girl acting like a grown-up prior to puberty.  In fruit trees, this situation does not end up in a successful fruit set.

Abscission of flowers and fruitlets is a natural mechanism for the plant to retain enough fruits that is equivalent to its capability to support under the existing environmental conditions.

Summer Crops

Fig. 1    Plums (Prunus domestica 'Santa Rosa')

Summer seems like a paradoxical blessing for the gardener.  While it is the time when the sun-induced plants put on their best performances to wow the gardener, it is also the time when the gardener finds time to leave the garden in search of a refreshing break from the work in his own garden.  It is the time when the gardener reaps the rewards of his labor.  It is also the time when fruits and vegetables are so cheap at the stores - it makes one wonder if it was ever worth the effort to grow them.  

This summer, the number of days we spent at home was less than that which we spent away from home. Whenever we came back from our trips, I was always trying to squeeze in some time to garden but then there was a huge mountain of laundry to work on. Then there were fruits to harvest and eat that we could not keep up with. So then there were fruits to can. As a result there was even less time to garden and zero time to blog.  But as the masters of the garden, we ought to choose the things we need to do. 
 

Fig. 2    Grapes (Vitis vinifera 'Pinot Nior')

Plums.  Compared to previous years, the plums (Fig.1) were late this year.  However, with our busy summer schedule, timing was perfect - the fruits were ready during a two- week-period that we were home.  So we harvested them and gave some to our friends.  I canned plum sauce - a family favorite as pancake topping. 

Grapes.  The main purpose of my grapevines is to provide shade.  In other words,  they are grown primarily for the foliage and not the fruits.  Nonetheless, we get enough fruits to make at least four quarts of jelly annually from the two Pinot noir.  We get more if we do not wait for the larger birds (blue jays and robins) to get them first.  I have one Zinfandel grapevine but it did not have fruits this year probably because it is now shaded by the ornamental pear that is planted next to it.  In spite of that, it still gives a lot of shade. 

Fig. 3   Swiss Chard (Beta vulgaris 'Rainbow Chard')

As summer approaches it end, the Swiss chards continue to  grow without any sign of bolting (flowering). They have taken a great deal of heat during the summer and I admit that I left most of the watering to the sprinkler system.  This would be totally alright but in our place there are days when the temperatures just get so hot - supplemental watering becomes necessary.  As the plants put on larger canopies,  the sprinklers need adjusting so that the water still gets to the right place.   Swiss chards proved to be tough in this climate and in my garden.  However, the leaves are decreasing in size and showing slight sign of chlorosis or yellowing (Fig.3).  I will try to prolong their production time by adding a little bit of nitrogen fertilizer.  I am curious to see which factor will stop them from growing - whether temperature, or flowering. 

Fig. 4    Radishes  (Raphanis sativus ' French Breakfast')

Radishes.  Unfortunately, we got to eat only a few radishes.  They were overgrown by the time that we had time to consume them.  I left some plants to flower just to encourage the pollinators to stick around and to allow the plants to produce their seeds for the next crop.

Fig. 5   Pears (Pyrus communis 'Bartlett')

 Pears.  We have a good crop of pears this year.  Coddling moth infestation still managed to leave  signs of their presence in some fruits but the infestation is dramatically reduced compared to that of last year.  This could be attributed to the insect trap I used in the early spring.  I believe that it would have been more effective if I had installed more than one trap per tree.  Recently, I learned that it is a good idea to have moth traps from April to September and replacing them as necessary.  I'll try that next year.   

Most of the branches are bent severely downward (Fig. 5) because of the heavy fruits.  Fortunately, the branches are pliable.  Another to-do-item is pruning the tree this fall.  So far, jars of pear butter line one of the counter tops in the kitchen - and yet we still have so many fruits hanging on the tree up to this time.

Fig. 6   Heirloom Tomato

Fig. 7    Tomato (Lycopersicon esculentum)

Tomatoes.  My tomatoes are late this year.  They are at the peak of their production now and yet autumn is here.    The heirloom tomatoes (Fig. 6)  are very sensitive to heat.  The plants basically stopped setting fruits during the hot months and are just starting to fruit again.  At this rate, there will be green tomatoes in the Thanksgiving menu. 

Apples.  The Fuji apples are almost ready.  The crabapple fruits are abscising (falling off) from the tree but I do not know what to do with them.  They are so tiny to make into anything of consequence - or am I wrong? 

Pomegranate. The pomegranate tree did not produce any fruits yet.  It's been a year since I brought it into my garden.  It flowered in early spring but the fruits did not set. 

Grow your food in the neighborhood of your kitchen. 

My Orange Trees

Fig. 1  Valencia Oranges in the winter. 

While other plants are starting a new season of production, most citrus plants are at the end of a season.   When the garden looks bare and unproductive, the citrus plants remind us that their deciduous counterparts are just taking a break.  They give us a glimpse of summer in a time when the frigid temperatures seem to freeze all possibilites in the garden. 

Fig. 2    First harvest:  Good eating quality, mildly tart, and medium-sized.

 I have two 'Valencia' orange trees that are growing in large pots.  Currently, they are laden with ripe and juicy fruits.  Two weeks ago we harvested some of the fruits in preparation for the supposedly cold snow storm. We did not have the snow but at least the fruits (Fig. 2) got into the kitchen where they are now a regular part of our daily meals.   Soon I will have to harvest them all so that the plant can start another season to produce. 

In my garden I also have a prolific 'Ponderosa' lemon tree where we harvest bags and bags of fruits every winter.   This year I also received a small 'Meyer' lemon tree in a five gallon pot as a present from my mother-in-law.  

Fig. 3    Scale insects on orange fruits.

Last summer these trees were infested with scale insects.   Since the trees are of manageable sizes, I decided to mechanically remove the insects off the branches, patiently.  However, it was battle between me and the ants.   As I demolished colonies of scale insects, the ants literally relocated the "pioneer" scale insects into new territories.  No insecticide was applied.  Some of the branches were severely damaged that I cut them off during the growing season.  The ones that I missed are seen as leafless branches on Fig. 1.  I hoped to win the battle against my wingless enemies (scale insects) the humane or organic way but I lost!   I saw them on the fruits (Fig. 3).  Those black dots on the rind are scale insects.    Somehow, I fear that even after harvesting all of the fruits, some ants somewhere will protecting another "pioneer" to settle on the next spring leaves.

Fig. 4  Limited growing space require regular pruning of plant.

Soon, I will have to harvest ALL the fruits in order to relieve the tree from these demanding "sink".   In a plant the sink is the destination of synthesized food substances from the source which is the leaves.  In families, the young kids can be paralleled to a sink and the parents are the source. :)  

The tree will need to be replenished with all the lost nutrients soon.  Fertilization is more important in potted plants than their in-ground counterparts since there is a limited hunting area for the roots. 

Pruning will also be necessary to remove as much of the damaged branches as possible.   Since the trees also serve as ornamental plants, they will have to be trimmed and cut back to maintain a shape and size that is suitable for the limited space on that side of the yard (Fig. 4). 

"A man ought to carry himself in the world as an orange tree would if it could walk up and down in the garden, swinging perfume from every little censer it holds up to the air."

~Henry Ward Beeher

Unexpectedly Heavy

Peaches

A week from now these fruits will probably be ready for harvest.  However, as they continue to ripen not only do they get sweeter - they also get heavier and bigger putting more weight on the branches.

Something is wrong with this picture: Too many fruits/branch

This peach tree was heavily infected with peach leaf curl in the spring.  The infection was prolonged due to frequent rains and low temperatures that I did not expect the fruits to remain.  Hence, I did not see the need for any fruit thinning at the time. 

No wonder fruit thinning is such an important operation in the production of quality fruits.  It also prevents damages to the tree.

Big loss

One of the major branches of my tree broke off; it could not hold the increasing weight of the fruits anymore.   It is the fault of the gardener who did not pay attention to the happenings in one corner of the yard.  Knowing how sweet these fruits, my heart sank when I saw this fallen branch.   On the other hand, this is good for the remaining fruits.  They get a better chance to bulk more. 

 Sometimes less is better. 

Mango Seedling Emerges

June 28, 2010  - First sign of emergence. 

June 29, 2010 - The plumule is out and starting to unbend.

June 30, 2010 -  The first set of true leaves finds light.

July 1, 2010 - The plumule now turns to a stem as the second set of leaves is beginning to differentiate.

After almost a month since the mango seeds were planted, the first sign of life emerges.   The wait was long considering that the seed was already germinating  when planted.  The radicle which is the part of the seed that would grow downwards to become the main root was visibly elongating.  Yet, it still took almost a month for the plumule (which is the part of the embryo that would grow upward) to find its way into the light.

This seedling has a lot of growing and differentiating to do.  It will be interesting to see how this tropical plant performs in this semi-arid temperate zone.  Although it is not much of a tree, it is the first of its kind that I have seen in California.  

Experiment in your garden and learn something new.

Rushing to Ripen

Plums (Prunus domestica 'Santa Rosa')

The plum tree is laden with fruits this year.  When plums ripen it happens in one week or two.  It's very fast.  Last week they were green with a tint of red on some of them.   Now there's no turning back!  They're ready.   Plums can be harvested before they are totally ripe.  They continue to ripen and get sweeter as they sit on the shelf - up to a certain point. 

Harvesting plums is one of the many fun summer activities in the backyard.  I enlist my kids to harvest them.  The tree is not very tall (it's only about nine feet) so they use a stool and an apple picker for the ones that are out there.  These plums are very sweet and excellent for eating. 

These plums will be a juicy welcome to my two older kids and my husband when they come back from a mission trip.  

Ripe fruits are bluish in color.

In case we fail to bring the fruits in, the Blue-Jay birds are more than happy to help themselves.  I spotted two of them already circling the tree trying to stake their claim.

Only a day or two to go before they're ready.

 With the way they look I might need to get my canning paraphernalia ready now. 

Plums

Prunus domestica 'Santa Rosa'

The plums are gradually changing color.  

 

A promise of more "plum sauce"

The California sunshine continues to hasten the fruits to ripen.   Thanks to sufficient rainfall - there's going to be a good crop this year.   This 'Santa Rosa' plum produces sweet fruits that are excellent for eating.   I can't wait!

Germinating a Mango Seed

Cut close on the thin side of the seed to break the seed coat slightly.

In the tropics where mangoes come from, seedlings can be found growing on compost piles or along sidewalks.  The place is humid and hot that seeds thrown away can germinate voluntarily.   Here on the other hand, the air is so dry that this recalcitrant seed has to be treated in a special manner for the seed to grow.  

This spring and all of summer we will be eating a lot of imported mangoes as usual.  I thought that I would try to germinate some seeds and see if they will make a good houseplant.  Avocados for example are sometimes treated as houseplants in places where they cannot grow successfully outdoors. 

What I Did to Germinate a Mango Seed

The mango has a recalcitrant seed which means that it cannot withstand drying and freezing.  The seed needs to be kept in a moist condition immediately after extracting the seed for the fruit. 

1.  Scrape as much pulp as possible from the seed using a knife.

2.  Cut across the thin side of the seed to break the fibrous seed coat.  This will reduce the length of germination period.

3.  Wrap the seed with a moist paper towel to provide the moisture that the seed needs.

4.  Place the wrapped seed in a clear plastic bag and seal it to prevent the paper from drying. 

5.  If necessary re-moisten the paper towel after a couple of weeks.  Return to plastic bag until the radicle (the first root from a seed) starts to protrude after three to four weeks depending on temperatures. 

6.  Plant in a pot (1 gal).  Keep it watered. The process will be long but once the leaves are out the plant will grow a lot faster.

After three weeks inside the plastic bag, the radicle has started to grow.

As soon as I see something happens, rest assured that I will let you know.  I am really curious to see how mango seedlings do on this side of the globe.

Too Many Fruits

Malus domestica 'Fuji'

After removing the 'Cecile Brunner' rose that was growing over it, the Fuji apple tree is finally finding its corner a favorable place.   It has set many fruits.  This is a reliable indicator that the growing condition is good.   However, five to six fruits per cluster are not all that good.  It is more than one stem can successfully carry all the way to maturity.  Fruit thinning needs to be done...soon. 

Fruit Thinning is the removal of excess fruit to ensure the development of quality fruits and to enhance repeat blooming.  First of all, reduced number of fruits will result in less competition for the photosynthates and thus bigger fruits.  This also allows the plant to allocate more food for the overall development of the plant.  Lesser weight from several fruits will also lessen the load of a single branch and thus avoid unnecessary damage to the spur. 

Young apples infested with codling moth (Cydia pomonella )

Fruits that are touching each other encourage the spread of codling moth infestation into more fruits.  As seen in the above picture, I lifted the other fruit away from the other one to expose the damage that has already been done on two fruits.  If these fruits are allowed to stay the larvae inside the fruit will continue to make its tunnel all the way to the other fruits. 

Fruit thinning is such an important process in commercial production to regulate the quality of the fruits.  In large scale apple production, fruit thinning is often done with the use of chemicals such as the insecticide carbaryl combined with the growth regulator NAA (Naphthalene acetic acid) applied at petal fall. 

For backyard gardeners like me, thinning is done by hand.  Fruits are removed individually making sure to leave the best fruit in the cluster.  Careful handling will also ensure that the chosen fruit and the fruiting spur are not damaged. 

So with regrets I will abort some of my apple fruits. 

Pomegranate No More

The excitement I had about my pomegranate died with the tree.  All the anticipation for the first leaf bud to come out slowly faded as I watched the leafless branches tuned brittle.   Whatever went wrong, it's ironic that the pear branch that I used to stake it is now growing.  The "staked" is now the "stake". :)

Just so you know that was not the last pomegranate tree.  I will plant another one again.  A better plant material will increase my chance of success. 

Avocado Seed

Germinating Avocado (Persea americana) Seed

A fact about the avocado seed.

The avocado seed is a recalcitrant or homeohydrous seed.  Recalcitrant seeds are those that cannot withstand desiccation or drying and freezing.  An avocado seed would loose its viability when dried.  (Viability is the ability of a seed to germinate.) When you are planning to grow an avocado from a seed, it is recommended that the seed be kept moist until the new plant emerges. 

How to germinate an avocado seed?

This is the only method I use to germinate avocado seeds.  It works all the time and it is very easy.  This is better than directly planting the seed in the ground especially in dry places where sufficient soil moisture is hard to maintain.  

1.  Take the seed from a ripe avocado fruit. 

2.  Immediately wrap the seed with wet paper towel.

3.  Place it inside a sandwich bag and seal.

4.  Place the sealed plastic bag with the seed in a warm place (near the window or fridge).

5.  Wait for several weeks until the seeds cracks.  Do not allow the paper towel to get dry.

6.  Continue waiting until the radical (the first root) comes out.

7.  At this point you can plant the seed in a pot or directly into the ground.  

8.  Keep it watered.

This procedure is far more effective and a lot easier than the "toothpick" method.

Peach Leaf Curl

Distorted peach leaf

The Disease.  Leaf curl is a fungal disease that affects peaches.  It is caused by a pathogen called Taphrina deformans.  I guess that the word 'deformans' reflects the nature of damage on the plant instead of the fungus itself. Infected areas of the leaves appear thickened and reddish in color.  They turn into distorted or malformed leaves.

In My Garden.  Every year, this disease shows up on my one and only peach tree.  Right after the first set of leaves appear, infection follows.  When the leaves are all deformed and discolored, the tree seems hopeless and not fit for any serious photosynthesis.  Fortunately, the disease can only survive under cooler and spread with the aid of the rain.   As the temperatures rise, the infected leaves fall off.  In some previous years I also helped the tree by had-picking the infected leaves.  This reduces the chance of the disease spreading on new leaves and thus shortening the overall "leaf curl period".

Currently, the temperature here is about 58º F and raining.  The weather still favors the development of the disease.  However, I noticed that most of the infected leaves have fallen off the tree and the proportion of healthy leaves is now more than the red-distorted ones.

In Your Garden.   If you have this problem on your peach tree, don't despair.  Read and understand the life cycle of Peach Leaf Curl.   Acquaint yourself with your climatic condition in relation to the requirements of the pathogen.  Although the disease can affect the yield and growth of your tree, the potential extent of damage is controlled by nature itself with some preventive measures from you.

Stroll in your garden...get acquainted with your unseen enemies.  For it is much easier to subdue them when you know their secret life.

Flowering Crabapple

Flowering Crabapple Tree (Malus floribunda)

Ornamental and Shade.  This beautiful crabapple tree blooms profusely every year.  It provides an early spring pink color in the backyard.  Not only it is delightful to look at, it is also very easy to grow and makes a good shade tree as it is fast-growing.  In my yard the crabapple is planted near the patio contributing to the much needed shade in the summer. 

Pollenizer.  A number of the apple trees are self-fertile (capable of producing viable pollens) while some are cross pollinated and would require another apple tree of a different variety as the source of fertile pollen.  The flowering crabapple is an excellent pollenizer for other apple trees.  An important factor to consider in choosing your apple varieties is the time of flowering.  The apple tree and the pollenizer tree (source of viable pollen) should bloom at the same time.  In my yard I have a Fuji apple that bears fruit every year (never mind that half of the fruits are infested with codling moth (Cydia (Laspeyresia) pomonella).  The only other apple tree nearby is the crabapple.  I would say that they are compatible. 

Removing the Fruits For Increased Fruiting

Lemon (Citrus limon)

After giving away so many lemons, this tree still stands laden with large bright yellow fruits.  I like harvesting fresh lemons whenever I need one so I could just leave the fruits on.  However, today I saw purple flower buds pushing their way out ...which means that those fruits (at least most of them) will have to come off the tree.  

Citrus Limon 'Ponderosa'

Here are some important cultural and post-harvest practices to consider:

1.  Harvest fruits before the flowers come out will ensure a good crop for the next season.   

2.  Prune to remove unproductive branches, allow sunlight to penetrate the canopy, and train the branches to grow towards desired direction. 

3.  Apply fertilizer under the following conditions: the leaves are yellowish; or when the tree is planted in a pot.   My lemon tree is planted on good soil; no fertilization is required.  On the other hand, I have two orange trees planted in large pots which need regular application of nutrients.

4.  Juice and freeze for future consumption.   Lemonades in the summer will be appreciated.   

5.  Make lemon curd; they are good for pancakes and scones. 

6.  Share.  Give some of your lemons to friends. 

Pomegranate 'Wonderful'

Pomegranate "Wonderful" Tree  Photo by Petals of the Past

I got a bareroot  plant material for pomegranate (Punica granatum L. 'Wonderful') waiting to be planted in my garden.  One problem remains - finding a place to plant it.  I will soak the bare root in water in the mean time to hydrate it prior to planting.  Pomegranate is supposed to be heat and drought tolerant which makes it a good plant for our area...also, they say that the variety, 'Wonderful', is highly adapted in California.

Wonderful

According to California Rare Fruit Growers, the variety 'Wonderful' is a vigorous and productive.  Because of that, it has become the leading commercial variety in California.  It originated in Florida and was first propagated in California in 1896. The fruits are large, deep purple-red, with medium thick tough rind.  The flesh is deep crimson in color.  It is juicy and of a delicious vinous flavor.  Soon I will have the chance to see and taste it from my own tree.

Background
The name pomegranate comes from the Latin words pomum (apple) and granatus (seeded).  So pomegranate means seeded apple.  The plant is a beautiful tree and the fruits are nutritious and decorative.  It must have been cultivated thousands of years ago since the Old Testament bible talks about pomegranate in many occasions as a part of a decorative design on the garments of priests (Exodus 28:33).   It must also have been grown and consumed in Egypts as part of their diet.  This is evidenced by the fact that the Israelites when they were led out of Egypt complained about the lack of grains, figs, grapevines or pomegranate (Number 20:5).  In California, pomegranate was introduced by the Spanish settlers in 1769.

Anyway, that's just a tidbit of information on this plant that will soon become a part of my garden.

Bartlett Pear

Bartlett Pears still on a tree

Bartlett Pears ripened at room temperature

I thought that the pear tree, Pyrus communis, in my bakyard was Anjou but this year it I concluded that it is Bartlett.  One of the most distingishing characteristics of Bartlett pear is that they change color from green to golden with a hint of red as they ripen.  They have a smooth and juicy texture.  I also found out that the flesh disintegrates easily when being cooked making it a good candidate for making pear-sauce and pear-butter.

One problem I need to deal with next year is pear codling moth, Cydia pomonella.